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When curating a ranking of London’s best eateries, one might foresee familiar high-end names. However, tucked prominently among these gastronomic titans is a modest salonu located in a outlying part of northern London.

An Shocking Accolade

This little Turkish eatery, specialising in the street food of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been declared the fourth finest restaurant in the capital by a prominent culinary publication. This honour has left the family completely astonished.

“I’m completely astonished,” remarks a owner’s son, alluding to his family’s dedication that culminated in their modest place securing such a prominent position on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Character of Simplicity

This little venue, which used to be a simple cafe before its transformation into a buzzing spot, has retained much of its original feel. It seats just more than 20 people and, beyond the dazzling live cooking performance, the interior remains mostly unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy spot,” comments the owner.

The Star Dish: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is all about the cuisine, and this restaurant more than excels. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a simple joy. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to keep a succulent quality.

It is then tossed into a massive pan with seasonings and oil, which are added in slowly. As the savoury mixture bubbles up, freshly made lavaş—a soft bread—is placed on top to take in all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are placed before the savoury meat is wrapped neatly inside.

It is typically enjoyed with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a strong slap of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, bold onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all in harmony.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A prominent food critic called this dish “a part of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a delight. It is doused in less syrup than found elsewhere, imparting it a deeper, more aromatic and less sickly profile.

Rising Above the Titans

Notably, this modest restaurant has outplaced several celebrated three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself close to the peak of the list, following other notable dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave this place satisfied for under £25, similar tasting menus at luxury establishments can start at significantly more than that amount.

The Philosophy of Hospitality

It is also among several Turkish restaurants listed and is found well beyond the city’s central zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and finest food but I do not agree with that,” states the owner.

“In my view what is paramount is friendliness, kindness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

The philosophy is echoed by the list’s curator, who stated that if he was in a position of authority, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London come to this spot as a finishing school, to show them the traps of overthinking, and to reveal what is attainable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Journey of Hard Work

Unlike many chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food didn’t work at elite establishments. “I am truly proud of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

Numerous restaurants require years to establish themselves, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its popularity is owing to tireless, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum would be really tired. She would go shopping in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Everything is made by hand; she would handle all of this. She is a solo parent and she balanced a social life but her friends would visit to encourage her. She had children and a house to manage as well. Each of these roles forged her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he says.

An Achievement for the People

The restaurant’s recognition is bound to have meaning beyond its own premises. “I think numerous people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” notes the owner, highlighting the wider meaning of this gastronomic achievement.